Scillonian III’s final sailing: Cornwall’s proud badge of seasickness
The end of an era on the Penzance to Scilly run
Today marks the final day in service for the Scillonian III, the passenger ferry that has carried Cornish families, island workers and holidaymakers across roughly 30 miles of open Atlantic water for decades. Anyone who has stood on Penzance quay in the early morning, bags at their feet and a nervous eye on the sky, will know the ship’s peculiar character. She is a workhorse rather than a luxury liner, with a flat-bottomed hull that locals will tell you is responsible for every lurch and roll on the crossing. On a calm day she can take up to 485 passengers, and over the years she has carried more than five million people out to St Mary’s, Tresco, Bryher and St Martin’s. Her retirement is a genuine milestone for the county. Many of us have a story about her, usually involving a bag, a bench in the saloon and a vow never to return. Her successor, Scillonian IV, has already begun her journey from Vietnam, and tickets for her first sailings from March have just gone on sale. The new vessel promises a smoother ride, which will be welcome news to anyone who has ever wondered whether the Atlantic was going to win.
Who feels the change most keenly
The ferry matters far beyond the tourists who snap photos of dolphins from the deck. Islanders rely on the crossing for everything from post and supplies to hospital appointments and school trips, and any change to the timetable ripples through households on St Mary’s and the smaller islands. Local businesses feel it too. Cafes and shops on the islands depend on day-trippers stepping off the boat, while accommodation providers and tour operators in Penzance watch their bookings rise and fall with the sailing schedule. Staff who have crewed the Scillonian III for years now face the unfamiliar task of learning a new vessel and adjusting to a different rhythm. Isles of Scilly Travel has long warned that the crossing can be uncomfortable because of the meeting of currents, and advises anyone prone to motion sickness to take precautions before setting off. That advice has not changed with the new ship, so it is worth remembering even if the reputation of the Scillonian III improves. For many of us the crossing is less a routine trip than a shared experience, and the people who make it happen, from deckhands to ticket staff, are the ones who keep that tradition alive for visitors and islanders alike.
What to do next and what to watch for
If you have a Scilly trip planned, the most practical step is to check the latest timetables and sailing notices before you travel, as schedules can shift during the changeover. Booking early for Scillonian IV’s opening months is sensible, since first-sailing interest is likely to be high. If you are prone to seasickness, take advice from your GP or pharmacist, sit mid-ship where the motion is usually gentler, and keep your eyes on the horizon. Those who would rather avoid the sea altogether can look at flights from Land’s End or helicopter services from Penzance, though these depend on the weather just as much. Meanwhile, if you are planning a wider Cornish break, the north coast offers plenty to enjoy without a boat in sight. Visit Newquay for its surf culture and lively town centre, and head to Fistral Beach for some of the county’s most famous breaks. Dog owners will be pleased to know many Cornish beaches allow dogs outside peak season, though rules vary by beach, so check local signage first. Plenty of dog friendly accommodation is also available along the coast, so you can plan a stay that suits the whole family, four legs included. Keep an eye on the first Scillonian IV sailings in March, as they will be the first real test of whether the new ship lives up to its promise.
Source: Being horribly sick on the Scillonian is a Cornish badge of honour
